We stayed at Whitianga (pronounced, it would seem, as "Fitianga" by the locals), another one-
street town center with a smattering of bars and restaurants. Our favourite was the Fire Place, a restaurant that looked a bit "noveau cuisine" but produced a mean Red Thai Curry and probably the best fillet steak I had on holiday. From there we toured the surrounding countryside in search of the Perfect Bay. The first day we attacked Hot Water Beach (the tide was in so we didn't dig a hole in the sand but Linda nearly stepped on a dead seagull -- I think she's working down the food chain). Then, we visited the surfers beach (the light on the waves was brilliant -- bright silver turning into black walls of water) Next, a drive round to Hahei (a sedate sandy beach with a panoramic view of green water, fleets of kayaks and dotted with islands). Following that, views of Cathedral Cove
(a choice of a 45 minute walk down a steep dirt track-- and presumably back up so we declined that particular adventure). Finally, Cooks Bay, which took us to a mere 300 feet from Whitianga but we were stopped by a river with the only means of crossing a tiny passenger (not car) ferry. So we had to follow our footsteps all the 50 klicks way back the long way.The second day was not so successful. It started off well, breakfast at a charming little place called Kuaotunu that had a fabulous tree by a stream flowing into the deep blue sea (click, click, click). Our search for the Perfect Bay took us on a loop road north of Whitianga but there the roads ended. Should have looked at the map a bit more before planning that one. Cue five hours on a gravelly, twisty, vertical loop that saw precious little but gave me RSI of the right arm and a swollen right knee. I suppose that, after 4,000 kms/2,500 miles, the driving was going to take its toll sooner or later. (Linda wants it made known that she kept offering to drive so there's no sympathy there.)
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